Some local friends in Florence told us about a charming lunch spot we had to try, Il Chicco di Caffè. When they said it felt like eating in your grandmother's kitchen, they weren't kidding.
There couldn't have been more than ten tables in the restaurant (all of which were communal) and we quickly realized that everyone there knew everyone else (or they might have even been related?). Fiesty old ladies in chef hats ran around and kissed everyone. People shouted, passed babies around, and drank lots of red wine. It was exciting. Melissa and I just sat in awe, observing and giggling and very, very happy.